Clancy Tucker's Blog: MIDDLE EAST

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19 May 2022 - THE GORGEOUS TOWN OF ES-SALT, JORDAN

THE GORGEOUS TOWN OF

ES-SALT, JORDAN

G'day folks,

Just north of Amman, in Jordan’s Balqa Government, is a city that has been inhabited since at least the Chalcolithic period. The ancient town of Es-Salt is home to remarkable Ottoman architecture, the legendary location of the prophet Job’s interment, and streets so narrow and winding that for some residents trash collection is done via donkey instead of vehicle.

Full of gorgeous panoramas and historic structures, Es-Salt is best appreciated by way of a strenuous trek up the historic Harmony Trail. At the end of the ascent stands a striped pink-and-white stone building locally known as al-Qal’a, Arabic for “The Castle.” In fact, it is a mosque and memorial to Ottoman soldiers who died in the vicinity during World War I. Though it requires a long hike, the view of Es-Salt from The Castle is worth the effort. On this peak, you’ll be standing atop layers and layers of history.

While it was founded by Alexander the Great, there is attestation in both written and archaeological record (some of which is on display at the city’s museum) that the area was previously settled by a Semitic-speaking people. It has seen Byzantines, Ghassanid Arabs, Mongols, Mamluks, Ottomans, Brits, and others pass through—alternatively building, ravaging, repairing, and occupying the city. However, the mark left on the city by the Ottomans has persisted.

Under these Turkish-speaking rulers, Es-Salt was the administrative capital of Jordan, and it is consequently full of stunning examples of Ottoman architecture, characterized by long arching windows and elegantly carved stone. Its style has also been influenced by Nablusi architects, who came from Palestine in the late 19th century. This city boasts the oldest public secondary school in Jordan (visible in the distance from The Castle), which is still in operation. In the days when trade was carried out on foot or by caravan, Es-Salt was an important hub, lying on the path between Amman and Jerusalem.

Es-Salt has historically been a mixed city of Muslims and Christians, as attested to by the presence of numerous mosques and churches distributed among the tightly packed line of houses bordering the winding streets. Of all the churches, Al-Khader, or St. George Orthodox Church, is the most famous. It incorporates a small cave and is covered in ornate paintings of the disciples and of St. George slaying a dragon. Another highlight is the Al-Hammam Road, which runs through a bustling marketplace frequented by locals and whose doors are reminiscent of some of the famous markets in Syria. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better place to visit for an authentic Jordanian experience.

Clancy's comment: Stunning place for a photographer.

I'm ...

4 October 2017 - THE SUEZ CRISIS

THE SUEZ CRISIS

G'day folks,

I wonder if modern kids have heard or read about this scenario. The Suez Crisis, also named the Tripartite Aggression and Operation Kadesh or Sinai War, was an invasion of Egypt in late 1956 by Israel, followed by the United Kingdom and France.

On October 29, 1956, Israeli armed forces pushed into Egypt toward the Suez Canal after Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser (1918-70) nationalized the canal in July of that same year, initiating the Suez Crisis. The Israelis soon were joined by French and British forces, which nearly brought the Soviet Union into the conflict, and damaged their relationships with the United States. In the end, the British, French and Israeli governments withdrew their troops in late 1956 and early 1957.

Suez Crisis: Background

The catalyst for the joint Israeli-British-French attack on Egypt was the nationalization of the Suez Canal by Egyptian leader Gamal Abdel Nasser in July 1956. The situation had been brewing for some time. Two years earlier, the Egyptian military had begun pressuring the British to end their military presence (which had been granted in the 1936 Anglo-Egyptian Treaty) in the canal zone. Nasser’s armed forces also engaged in sporadic battles with Israeli soldiers along the border between the two countries, and the Egyptian leader did nothing to conceal his antipathy toward the Zionist nation.

Supported by Soviet arms and money, and furious with the United States for reneging on a promise to provide funds for construction of the Aswan Dam on the Nile River, Nasser ordered the Suez Canal seized and nationalized. The British were angry with the move and sought the support of France (which believed that Nasser was supporting rebels in the French colony of Algeria) and Israel (which needed little provocation to strike at the enemy on its border) in an armed assault to retake the canal.

Suez Crisis: 1956-57

The Israelis struck first, on October 26, 1956. Two days later, British and French military forces joined them. Originally, forces from the three countries were set to strike at once, but the British and French troops were delayed.

Behind schedule, but ultimately successful, the British and French troops took control of the area around the Suez Canal. However, their hesitation had given the Soviet Union–also confronted with a growing crisis in Hungary–time to respond.

The Soviets, eager to exploit Arab nationalism and gain a foothold in the Middle East, supplied arms from Czechoslovakia to the Egyptian government beginning in 1955, and eventually helped Egypt construct the Aswan Dam on the Nile River after the United States refused to support the project. Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev (1894-1971) railed against the invasion and threatened to rain down nuclear missiles on Western Europe if the Israeli-French-British force did not withdraw.

The response of President Dwight Eisenhower’s administration was measured. It warned the Soviets that reckless talk of nuclear conflict would only make matters worse, and cautioned Khrushchev to refrain from direct intervention in the conflict. However, Eisenhower (1890-1969) also issued stern warnings to the French, British and Israelis to give up their campaign and withdraw from Egyptian soil. Eisenhower was upset with the British, in particular, for not keeping the United States informed about their intentions.

The United States threatened all three nations with economic sanctions if they persisted in their attack. The threats did their work. The British and French forces withdrew by December; Israel finally bowed to U.S. pressure in March 1957.

In the aftermath of the Suez Crisis, Britain and France found their influence as world powers weakened.

Clancy's comment: It could have been a lot worse I guess.

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8 August 2016 - KIDS FROM EGYPT

KIDS FROM EGYPT

G'day folks,

Welcome to the lives of kids from Egypt. Egypt, a country linking northeast Africa with the Middle East, dates to the time of the pharaohs. Millennia-old monuments still sit along the fertile Nile River Valley, including the colossal Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza and the hieroglyph-lined Karnak Temple and Valley of the Kings tombs in Luxor. The capital, Cairo, is home to Ottoman landmarks such as Muhammad Ali Mosque.

Continent: North Africa/Middle East

Climate: Hot desert! In summer, temperatures average more than 100 degrees.

School:

School attendance is required for six years, generally beginning at age six or seven. However, many do not attend; literacy in Egypt is less than 60%.
Besides lessons in reading and writing, the school week includes religious education. Muslim and Christian children receive separate instruction.

Play:

Shooting marbles is a popular pastime, and one that—like tic tac toe—may have been passed down from ancient Egypt.
Soccer is the number one sport; tennis, squash and wrestling are also favorites.

Family:

Egyptians generally live in nuclear family households, but close to extended family; in a city, related families may live in the same apartment building.
In most families, girls help with indoor chores, such as laundry, while boys help with outdoor chores, such as shopping.

Signature foods:

Fool medames, a dish of seasoned fava beans; the number-one dish in Egypt today, it has been eaten since ancient times
Koshari, a stewlike dish of lentils, rice and noodles topped with spicy tomato sauce and fried onions

Interesting animals:

The bushy-tailed jird, a fast-climbing desert gerbil with big ears and a distinctive plume-like tail
The little green bee eater, a tiny bird with a bright green body and turquoise face; it usually removes the stinger from a bee or wasp before eating it

Unique holiday: One of the oldest festivals in the world—dating back 4,500 years—Sham el-Nessim (“Sniffing the Breeze”) marks the beginning of spring. Families celebrate this national holiday with daylong picnics.
Did you know? Egypt is home to the Nile, the world's longest river. Its shores are home to both modern cities and ancient ruins. About 200 species of fish, 350 species of birds and the famous Nile crocodile all depend on this great river.