This Jewish bakery, among the last in the region, sells legendary sweets from a century-old storefront in India.
At the turn of the 20th century, Nahoum Israel Mordecai moved from the
Middle East to Kolkata. He was part of a community of more than 4,000
other Jewish people from Syria and Iraq, called Baghdadi Jews, who had
flourished along trade routes in India since the Mughal Empire. They
brought their faith, their culture, and, in some cases, their talent for
baking. Nahoum was one of the community’s most talented confectioners.
In 1902, he began selling baked goods and cheese door to door. In 1916, he formally opened Nahoum and Sons bakery.
More than a century later, the dark wood counter
of Nahoum and Sons’ original New Market location continues to groan
under the weight of sweets. Bengalis are famous sweet makers and eaters,
and their milk-based mishti are a dream of sweet syrups and
fried dairy. Nahoum and Sons’ sweets are a bit different than
conventional Bengali fare, mixing Western staples such as brownies and
cream puffs with Jewish and Middle Eastern confections, such as challah
bread and baklava. Some sweets at Nahoum’s, such as savory caraway cookies known as kakas,
are signatures of the Baghdadi Jewish community. Others, like the
bakery’s coconut and cheese samosas, are pure fusion, the result of a
marriage of traditions and flavors common to this once-colonial
Today, Nahoum and Sons is one of Kolkata’s last Jewish cultural institutions. The city’s Jewish community has dwindled to around 20 people. Many of Kolkata’s Jews fled following independence in 1947,
uncertain what an independent India would bring. Meanwhile, the 2013
death of the founder’s grandson had loyalists wondering whether the
bakery would be shut for good. Luckily, another family member took over
the business, and it remains strong. Tradition has served the bakery
well over the years: Although owners just recently began accepting
credit cards, they continue to use the wooden money till that has
collected dough (of the financial kind) for the past hundred years.
Even though the community’s numbers have declined significantly, Nahoum
and Sons remains a testimony to the pluralistic history of India. One
slice of the bakery’s lemon tart, and you’ll understand why this
institution has weathered the test of time.
Clancy's comment: Diet? What diet? Show me the way ...